The beautiful resort town of Puerto Vallarta, Mexico located along the shores the Pacific Ocean offers not only fantastic weather but art, history and colorful architecture throughout its cobblestone central core, the Zona Romántica. This is the perfect getaway complete with palm trees and warm ocean waves under a cobalt blue sky. Paradise!
When the idea of escaping a dark cold winter in the Pacific Northwest to visit Puerto Vallarta was suggested I jumped at the chance! As it turned out my timing was perfect. A week prior to the trip a massive storm hit Portland. Wind, snow and ice resulted in large scale blackouts and a very cold house. Mexico was a very welcome change of scenery.
Welcome to Puerto Vallarta
We arrived around noon at the Puerto Vallarta International Airport and while that was the earliest arrival time we could get it wasn’t early enough to beat the crowds. Not surprisingly, going to a Mexican resort town in January is not at all an unique idea. After a couple of hours waiting in lines to get through customs we stepped outside to find numerous taxi options. For $30 USD we were finally on our way to our final destination, the Zona Romántica section of the city.
This historic core of Puerto Vallarta is a very popular destination for tourists and with good reason. Charming and scenic this area is authentically Mexico from the amazing food to the historic architecture. Our first stop was our home for the next five days, the Playa Los Arcos Hotel located beachfront along the esplanade or Malecon as it’s called. This location was perfect and not at all by chance. My travel companions, my sister-in-law and sister, have been to PV numerous times and know this area very well. This was my first time visiting Puerto Vallarta and I knew I would get a taste of their PV favorites.
“Toes in the sand by 2pm”! This was their mantra and despite being slightly behind schedule we headed to Langostinos. Here we enjoyed chips, guacamole and of course a celebratory margarita. This restaurant, as with many along the Malecon, have tables set up in the sand mere steps from the the Pacific. And just like that relaxation set in, with pelicans flying overhead, the warmth of the sunshine and view of the Los Muertos Beach and its landmark pier. I’m definitely not in Portland anymore!
Take a Walk around the Zona Romántica
The old town section of Puerto Vallarta is very walkable. We made our way through the town admiring the unique charm of the city. There are numerous shops and restaurants throughout this portion of the town.
Along the cobblestone streets we zig zagged through the district and eventually came to a river, Rio Cuale. This river marks the boundary of the Zona Romántica district and the neighboring Centro district to the north.
We crossed a swinging bridge and on the other side came across a hotel, Casa Kimberly . It is connected by a sky bridge to a building across the street. It turns out this was once the home of Elizabeth Taylor connected to Richard Burton’s house by the elevated walkway. Now a boutique hotel it’s known for its classic Hollywood connection.
A short distance from this vantage point I could see the famous landmark Church of Our Lady Guadalupe. This gorgeous building was constructed in the 1930s and is a well known site in the city. We walked around the exterior and inside this beautiful ornate church.
Art Along Puerto Vallarta’s Malecon
From there we made our way back to the Malecon and strolled along the beach as the sun set. Here we passed by some famous local sites including the stone arches of Los Arcos. From this point southward you’ll pass by some of the bronze sculptures that line this stretch.
La Fuente de la Amistad “The Friendship Fountain” by James Bottom depicts three dolphins. This sculpture was a gift from Puerto Vallarta’s sister city, Santa Barbara. Next up is Bailarines de Vallarta by James Demetro of a couple performing the Mexican Hat Dance. The next sculpture is Erica-Dos by Maritza Vasquez which are two oxidized steel spiked balls which are said to resemble sea urchins. I didn’t realize until after the trip that this was only a small collection of the Malecon sculptures. After the fact I realized had I headed north at Los Arcos I would have seen the majority of these beautiful artworks that line the esplanade. Next time!
Tacos for Dinner
It had been a long day packed with travel, sightseeing and miles of walking so we were hungry. My companions already knew where we would dine on our first night. As we approached the restaurant the long line was not a welcome sight. I was assured it was well worth the hour-long wait to dine at Pancho’s Tacos and they were absolutely right!
This little hole in the wall is one of the most popular spots in PV and with good reason, the food was delicious! As a vegetarian it was also my first hint that my meals, while in Mexico, would be primarily made from mushrooms which luckily are a favorite of mine. After dinner and a nighttime stroll we called it a day and a very successful one at that!
Coffee and Pastries
Day 2 began with a few more traditions of my traveling companions. The first stop was to get conchas (Mexican sweet bread) pastries from Eulo’s Bakery. Delicious! We needed coffee to accompany our pastries and as we passed by the neighborhood Starbucks I was asked if I’d like to get coffee here. Their coffee is always consistent but the last thing I want to do in a foreign country is have anything I can easily get at home in the U.S.
We walked down the block and came across Petricor Coffee. This café became my morning destination for the remainder of our stay. Their Mexican mocha is delicious and they always ask if you want Mexican chocolate in the mocha. You definitely do because it is not only delicious but supports the local economy. Choosing Mexican chocolate is something they always thank you for and as I realized quickly, excellent service is a trademark of Puerto Vallarta.
After conchas and coffee we headed to the pier to catch our boat to Yallapa. We booked this trip the day prior which is easy to do at the tour companies which are on the Malecon near the pier. Yallapa is approximately an hour away by jet boat and well worth the time and minimal expense ($20 USD per person round trip). This adventure is a story in itself (coming soon) so I’ll just mention the highlights. Gorgeous waterfall, whales swimming alongside our boat and getting lost in this charming Mexican village.
Picturesque Dining above the Pacific
We returned from Yallapa to Puerto Vallarta late in the afternoon and promptly made dinner reservations. Tonight I chose the restaurant after reading about the spots with the best views and atmosphere. I selected Mar y Vino which happened to be located at our hotel.
This rooftop spot not only has an amazing view of the Pacific Ocean, pier and beach but has the unique feature of being essentially a fancy wading pool. After placing your shoes in a bag the host seats guests at their partially submerged table. The water extends to the edge of the floor meeting up visually with the blue of the ocean. This makes for a stunning effect and in our case we experienced this along with a beautiful sunset followed by fireworks.
While the ambience here was remarkable, the food was also fantastic. Seafood is their specialty as is the case with many of the local restaurants given their coastal location. I was pleasantly surprised to find multiple vegetarian options and enjoyed their portobello relleno.
After Dinner Entertainment
After dinner we watched some traditional dancing on the lower level of the hotel and then went out for an after dinner cocktail at another spot my companions always visit, Andales. My sister-in-law noted this was her mother’s and grandparent’s favorite spot. As soon as we walked in the door we were greeted by loud music and employees yelling at the rowdy people dancing on the bar! We squeezed our way through this very crowded room and its lively patrons to the last empty table.
This might sound like a normal nightclub scene but remember I mentioned it being a favorite of my sister in law’s mother and grandparents. With ABBA’s Dancing Queen blaring and septuagenarian dancing we enjoyed both our margaritas and some great people watching.
Beach Breakfast Puerto Vallarta Style
Day 3 and we headed to breakfast on the beach at Curates y Cuetes with my sister-in-law’s grandparents to celebrate her grandmother’s birthday. The chilaquiles were delicious and the atmosphere completely relaxed. We watched whales offshore and listened to the mariachi music as the beach vendors continuously stopped by to offer everything from massages to jewelry to art. Many of these vendors knew my sister-in-law’s grandparents who seemed to know everyone from restaurant owners to other expats lounging on the beach. Our visit coincided with their extended stay in PV. They have come here for decades and often stay for months at a time. They know the area very well so it was interesting to hear their stories.
One tale I found partially interesting was about crime. In all the years they have come here only once did they see a crime. A man along the Malecon grabbed a woman’s purse. She yelled and within seconds the employees of the businesses lining the boardwalk came out and stopped him. Not only did they catch and detain him but tied him to a truck to be driven to the police station as an example of what happens when someone commits a crime. Tourism is vital to this city and to economically survive safety has to be ensured. These residents care about their city and it shows.
Mosaic Tile, Pizza and a Crocodile
After a lengthy breakfast and time relaxing on the beach we were due for some exercise and decided to wander around the area. We visited the Lázaro Cárdenas Mosaic Tile Park which in 2017 was transformed into a beautiful immersive piece of art. From there we headed back to the Maceron and walked north.
When we came to the area where the walkway crosses over Rio Cuale we noticed people lining the railing looking at the river. There was a very large crocodile resting in the water or rather looking for dinner. It was an unexpected sighting and a bit unnerving so close to the beach. Directly across the bridge we came across shops selling trinkets so we browsed for a bit. I couldn’t resist occasionally walking to the river viewpoint to check on the crocodile.
We were wondering where to go for dinner and came upon L’angoloDi Napoli. Pizza was not exactly what we had planned but something about the smell of roasted garlic drew us in. The bruschetta and wood fired pizza were fantastic!
Evening Walk along the Malecon
After dinner we strolled south along the Malecon and enjoyed another stunning sunset. The path was full of people enjoying the beautiful evening and gorgeous views.
After our evening stroll we arrived back at our hotel, Playa Los Arcos which is central to all that Zona Romántica has to offer. The close proximity to dining, entertainment and the beach is a big perk to staying in this area!
Art Shopping in Puerto Vallarta
Day 4 began with breakfast at Cafe San Angel followed by more walking around the Zona Romántica section of the city. This was our last full day here and I was ready to do some shopping. I’ve collected Oaxacan wood carved alebrijes for years. These brightly colored animal carvings come from the Oaxaca region of Mexico but I hoped to find some in Puerto Vallarta. Luckily I found Shazel which carries art and jewelry and had a wide variety of sculptures to choose from.
Next up was Mundo de Cristal who specialize in blown glass and ceramics made by Mexican artisans. I found a beautiful ceramic bowl which they wrapped with great care to ensure it was ready for travel.
I stopped in at Galleria Dante which is Puerto Vallarta’s largest gallery. The space and artwork displayed here were wonderful. It’s not only the galleries and fine shops which carry beautiful artwork. Artisans line the streets selling their works. I spoke with a few of these artists who enthusiastically explained the process involved with the art they create. From beautiful paper pressed art to huichol bead work the art you’ll find wandering the streets is stunning. I left with a beautiful huichol piece, a bull, which is made of small glass beads carefully pressed into Beeswax over a paper mache form. I even came across one display and was surprised to find a symbol of my home state of Oregon.
After a day of shopping we headed back to the beach for our daily dose of relaxation. I opted for a smoky mescal on the rocks with salt. As the sun set we spend our final evening in Puerto Vallarta walking along the Malecon and admiring the scenery.
Fantastic Thai Food in Puerto Vallarta
When dinner rolled around we had trouble deciding where to go and ended up at Archie’s Wok. It was delicious and a reminder that there are numerous dining options in Puerto Vallarta. We were drawn in by the charming patio which we had noticed earlier on our walks through town. I didn’t realize until after returning home that Archie, the founder of this fantastic restaurant was something of a celebrity as he’d been director, John Huston’s private chef and part of the Hollywood history of Puerto Vallarta. Archie’s opened in 1986 and is now run by the late Archie’s family. It is a must when you visit!
After dinner we took a walk out to the festively illuminated pier. The Malecon is beautiful at night and quite a popular attraction. There were just as many people enjoying the area as there had been during the daylight hours.
In Search of Sea glass and Souvenirs
We awoke on our final day to overcast skies and slightly cooler weather. For breakfast we stopped by Andeles and sat outside. The restaurant had a very different feel than the nighttime atmosphere we had experienced. My companions indulged in oversized blended drinks as our time here came to a close. A last stop at the beach to search for sea glass and to purchase of a few last minute gifts from the beachfront vendors and then we were on our way to the airport and back to Oregon.
Puerto Vallarta, especially the Zona Romántica, combines natural beauty with a feeling of authentic history. The tourists to the area are diverse and the city extremely welcoming. The service was exceptional everywhere we visited from restaurants to shops. Multiple times we’d end up having conversations with the workers who were always happy to answer questions while showing great pride in their city. This section of the city also feels extremely safe. Days spent wandering the cobblestone streets while seeing the sites, drinking margaritas on the gorgeous beach and viewing stunning sunsets all while being made to feel very welcome. Yes, please! I can’t wait to return and explore more of this beautiful city.
